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4. “The Last Supper” is contained not in the church itself, but in the adjoining rectory. The ignorant me thought that it was a canvas painting, though because the work has been studied and copied extensively the misperception is not uncommon. The masterpiece, arguably da Vinci’s most famous, has gone through a lot – bombings during the Second World War, when it was sandbagged, wear and tear, as well as the weather – and has deteriorated and flaked despite major restoration. Tickets must be reserved way in advance (unless one travels with a tour), and the 15-minute stay feels necessary before the painting is gone for good.

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